Hey, I've got a faulty oven here that won't heat up properly. The previous owner suspected a defective heating coil, but they are all functional. I tested it with an oven thermometer: if only bottom heat is on, the thermostat switches correctly and the oven heats up as it should. However, as soon as top heat is (also) on, it only heats up to about 80°C (144°F) below the target temperature.
The sensor is located directly behind the upper coil, so it doesn't seem too far-fetched that it switches sooner in this case, but 80 degrees too early? It has been working for the past 12 years... In YouTube videos, a faulty thermostat seems to cause the stove to heat non-stop.
Any idea on how I can fix this? I don't want to buy a spare part only for the problem to persist in the end.
Edit: This is about an IKEA FRAMTID OV9 featuring an EGO 55.17253.120.
12 Comments
muntedcrocodile@lemm.ee · 6 pts · 1y
Sounds like a faulty thermostat at temperatures over 80C. Tun on bottom element only and uae heat gun directly on thermostat along with 3rd party thermometer to verify/rule out any top element issues.
Alternativly (if thermometer is cheap) just replace thermometer and hope for the best.
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 1 pts · 1y
I might have phrased that a little ambiguously. The thermostat does not switch off at 80 degrees, but 80 degrees below target temperature (set 150, reached 70).
The replacement thermostat is 40€, which is more than I usually intend to spend on a repair, so it would be a shame to buy it and find that the fault is still there.
muntedcrocodile@lemm.ee · 3 pts · 1y
That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error. If its got a computer in it u might be fucked. If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 3 pts · 1y
That's what I thought too, but when I try it with bottom heat only, it switches just at the right temperature.
The oven only has a display for the clock and the roasting thermometer, the thermostat is independent (an EGO 55.17253.120).
I really want to avoid that.
Butler@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 1y
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 1 pts · 1y
Placement looks okay to me, sure is dirty up there though. Could that be the issue?
Butler@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 1y
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 2 pts · 1y
I was about to say yes, but there was one part left that I wasn't sure what it is, so I checked. The casing says ELTH 271P / T200, which from what I can gather is a thermal cut-off switch. A potential problem cause?
The active one out of two top heating coils measures 3.6A, roughly 800W at 230V. Seems alright and should not trigger it I guess.
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 1 pts · 1y
I've been wondering about whether I could replace it with a cheaper thermostat with a similar rating. I'm gonna check the placement.
quixotic120@lemmy.world · 4 pts · 1y
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 3 pts · 1y
It's an AEG model I think, sold under the IKEA FRAMTID series (OV9 model). Thermostat is an EGO 55.17253.120. Similar thermostats are barely cheaper than a new identical model where I live.
Thorry84@feddit.nl · 3 pts · 1y
It would really help in cases like this to post exactly what device it is. This matters a lot for steps on how to best tackle the repair. Ovens are usually pretty similar, but the devil is in the details as usual, so we need to know as much as possible.
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 2 pts · 1y
I mentioned it in other comments, but I'm going to edit the post to include it there.
Butler@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 1y
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 1 pts · 1y
It has two heating elements in the top, one of them is active when you select top + bottom heat. It is only 800W. The other one comes on when you select a grill function.
I got it for free on a local marketplace. The owner just said it worked alright in those years.
joulethief@discuss.tchncs.de · 1 pts · 1y
Update: the thermostat was never faulty, my own oven behaves exactly the same.