@user_6282638282 yeah, when its stuck hard sometimes it just wont come off. Ive killed a couple of beds like that. Basically do the opposite of getting better adhesion! Thinner first layer, lower temps, larger nozzle offset etc
@user_6282638282 I've had similar problems. It may be the coating has been removed from the bed. It happens when filament sticks too much, PETG is pretty bad for it. I tend to leave my bed to cool so the piece pops off itself. That doesnt always work. Following other advice to reduce adhesion like bed temp, offset etc may work.
@cyberwolfie I tried with 1.0 and it really does appear to do the same things, so you will get what you need. I do need to try changing myself..... Not sure when though.
Good luck with the project. I'll hopefully see it up on Lemmy.
@cyberwolfie@Imgonnatrythis agree that Freecad learning curve is steep. I balked and ended up using Fusion360 (non commercial). I found it to be more friendly and have tutorials I liked. I like the idea of using an LLM to code in something like OpenSCAD though.
@KiloGex you need to tune your printer for the cold. Exposure times need to be longer and rise times slower. The set reaction is slower and the resin more viscous.
I managed with my printer in similar temps. Clean up is also more difficult in lower temps. I don't have the link I used, others may suggest.
@WolfLink@CheeseNoodle I have and Ender 3 S1. On my old CR10 I had similar opinion to you on the bl touch. Since I upgraded the firmware on the Ender some of the new bed leveling stuff has been a handbags. I couldn't do without it now. Huge reduction in faff.
@Krauerking yeah, yuck. The two point with Calcium chloride gives this insight. It has Relative humidity of around 33. If the offsets are constant then they may be worth using, with the ick factor of course. If the offsets don't make sense then the detectors are shot and fit for the bin.
You can get calcium chloride at the hardware store, it's used as Desiccant for damp areas.
@Krauerking@PlasticExistence they'll have subtly different drying profiles. Silica gel had a higher capacity but will maintain a generally higher relative humidity. Check the graph here out https://www.impakcorporation.com/desiccants
Activated alumina doesn't appear to be as effective as molecular sieve at low humidity from a lit. search.
You should check for air leaks in the system first. When I lose Desiccant this is usually why.
@Krauerking my opinion is no. For many things you can find a model on line. Much of the challenge can be getting the printer to work as you wish, so modelling might not be first on the to do list.
@bdonvr you've probably heard this before...... But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I've had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it's night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.
@user_6282638282 yeah, when its stuck hard sometimes it just wont come off. Ive killed a couple of beds like that. Basically do the opposite of getting better adhesion! Thinner first layer, lower temps, larger nozzle offset etc
@user_6282638282 I've had similar problems. It may be the coating has been removed from the bed. It happens when filament sticks too much, PETG is pretty bad for it. I tend to leave my bed to cool so the piece pops off itself. That doesnt always work. Following other advice to reduce adhesion like bed temp, offset etc may work.
@Imgonnatrythis @cm0002 octoprint has a useful Telegram plug in so i can see my print updates on my phone. I'd recommend
@cyberwolfie I tried with 1.0 and it really does appear to do the same things, so you will get what you need. I do need to try changing myself..... Not sure when though.
Good luck with the project. I'll hopefully see it up on Lemmy.
@cyberwolfie @Imgonnatrythis agree that Freecad learning curve is steep. I balked and ended up using Fusion360 (non commercial). I found it to be more friendly and have tutorials I liked. I like the idea of using an LLM to code in something like OpenSCAD though.
@KiloGex you need to tune your printer for the cold. Exposure times need to be longer and rise times slower. The set reaction is slower and the resin more viscous.
I managed with my printer in similar temps. Clean up is also more difficult in lower temps. I don't have the link I used, others may suggest.
@sic_semper_tyrannis check this out. https://m.youtube.com/@AuroraTech/videos. Matter of fact reviews that certain don't hype
@WolfLink @CheeseNoodle I have and Ender 3 S1. On my old CR10 I had similar opinion to you on the bl touch. Since I upgraded the firmware on the Ender some of the new bed leveling stuff has been a handbags. I couldn't do without it now. Huge reduction in faff.
@Krauerking yeah, yuck. The two point with Calcium chloride gives this insight. It has Relative humidity of around 33. If the offsets are constant then they may be worth using, with the ick factor of course. If the offsets don't make sense then the detectors are shot and fit for the bin.
You can get calcium chloride at the hardware store, it's used as Desiccant for damp areas.
@Krauerking ah but you can measure the offset. A two point calibration should cover your measurement range. Not ideal but you could get a reading.
@Krauerking you could look at calibrating the hygrometers or at least the offset.
https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/06/how-to-calibrate-a-hygrometer-humidity-sensor-using-the-salt-test/
Two point calibration with calcium chloride and sodium chloride might be even more accurate
@Krauerking @PlasticExistence they'll have subtly different drying profiles. Silica gel had a higher capacity but will maintain a generally higher relative humidity. Check the graph here out https://www.impakcorporation.com/desiccants
Activated alumina doesn't appear to be as effective as molecular sieve at low humidity from a lit. search.
You should check for air leaks in the system first. When I lose Desiccant this is usually why.
P. S. Silica gel can be regenerated.
@slug @Krauerking there are some out there. Can't say I looked to closely but I wasn't terribly impressed.
@Krauerking my opinion is no. For many things you can find a model on line. Much of the challenge can be getting the printer to work as you wish, so modelling might not be first on the to do list.
@WolfLink @papalonian yeah, something like this but you might try. MS 3D Builder is out is still around our even good old Meshmixer!
Alternatively you could try adding a plane and extrusion this downwards on blender, Meshmixer etc
@nautilus @dlatch this conversation degenerated quickly.....
@bdonvr you've probably heard this before...... But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I've had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it's night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.
@CarbonAlpine Amazing model. Did you publish anywhere? I'd like to print for a full size mock up horse I made.
@MissJinx there are a few but some are just rebadged versions of other slicers. Prusa/Orca and Slicer are two I have tried.
@MissJinx I've had issues with some slicers not coping with vase mode.
Did you try changing the vase mode settings?
Some models don't work so well on vase mode. Usually with steep overhangs.
You might try a different slicer?