The supports are only lightly connected to the object, to make them easier to remove. The force being exerted by the plastic as it cools is stronger than the light connection to the supports, especially over such a large area.
Probably there is a draft causing it to cool to rapidly. An enclosure, even just a cardboard box around the print area, would help.
Sorry I should have thought to lead with that. It's a prusa xl, in an old creality enclosure. It isn't heated but stays pretty consistent. This is eryone pla
Support gap too wide, causing model to lift off the supports- Or the bottom and sides warped up, causing them to bow inward and buckle that thin section.
I agree with other commenters, this seems like turning it 90 so the back face could sit flat on the build plate would likely have a lot better results.
If that is not an option, lower the support Z-gap and increase the support interface layer density/decrease line spacing.
Make sure your filament is dry.
Decrease your cooling fan speeds.
I took the default prusa slicer snug setting. Though I will check tomorrow to see what else might be set. I remember when reading up on organic supports that there were some suggested changes to support settings. Maybe I changed something... I don't think so though.
Not sure why it would warp there, perhaps infill percentage is too high?
If you don't need the layer lines to be in a specific orientation I'd consider rotating the model back 90° for the reprint, hopefully that should avoid any warping.
Is there any reason you can't make the model in two separate pieces instead, with the floor and sides as one print, and the roof as another print, to either be glued or clipped together?
I'd think that would avoid the warping problem altogether, plus save wasted filament. Though in all fairness, it would still be nice to learn what's causing the warping anyways, for sake of future prints..
Being honest, I'd printed this 5 or 6 times before with the default supports. Most of the time it was fine but the last two times it was falling over and basically making a messy bridge. So I tried organic supports, which is what we see here.
15 Comments
Aarrodri@lemmy.world · 27 pts · 100d
Why not print "back side down"? So you need specific line orientation?
daannii@lemmy.world · 18 pts · 100d
Yeah op. Rotate it so it's printing with bottom and top being the open parts on the middle.
Rough sketch but hope this helps.
mortalic@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 99d
That's a good idea, maybe I'll go e that a go tomorrow
NaibofTabr@infosec.pub · 20 pts · 100d
The supports are only lightly connected to the object, to make them easier to remove. The force being exerted by the plastic as it cools is stronger than the light connection to the supports, especially over such a large area.
Probably there is a draft causing it to cool to rapidly. An enclosure, even just a cardboard box around the print area, would help.
mortalic@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 99d
Maybe, this is in an enclosure though, so that seems fairly unlikely
NaibofTabr@infosec.pub · 4 pts · 99d
OK, interesting, no draft. Is it PLA? Is the chamber being actively heated? What is the printer model?
mortalic@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 99d
Sorry I should have thought to lead with that. It's a prusa xl, in an old creality enclosure. It isn't heated but stays pretty consistent. This is eryone pla
empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com · 9 pts · 100d
Support gap too wide, causing model to lift off the supports- Or the bottom and sides warped up, causing them to bow inward and buckle that thin section.
I agree with other commenters, this seems like turning it 90 so the back face could sit flat on the build plate would likely have a lot better results. If that is not an option, lower the support Z-gap and increase the support interface layer density/decrease line spacing. Make sure your filament is dry. Decrease your cooling fan speeds.
floquant@lemmy.dbzer0.com · 8 pts · 100d
Excessive cooling maybe? Or the support gap is too tall?
Edit: might also be nozzle temp too low
mortalic@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 99d
I took the default prusa slicer snug setting. Though I will check tomorrow to see what else might be set. I remember when reading up on organic supports that there were some suggested changes to support settings. Maybe I changed something... I don't think so though.
Militias@lemmy.world · 7 pts · 100d
Not sure why it would warp there, perhaps infill percentage is too high?
If you don't need the layer lines to be in a specific orientation I'd consider rotating the model back 90° for the reprint, hopefully that should avoid any warping.
GoblinQuester@dice.camp · 2 pts · 100d
mortalic@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 99d
That does seem to be a good suggestion. I think I'll do that.
Xanthrax@lemmy.world · 5 pts · 100d
The heat from printing the end of those supports/ limbs. You need to reduce the heat as much as possible without clogging your nozzle.
Edit: A lot of people figured that out before me. Good luck!
over_clox@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 100d
Is there any reason you can't make the model in two separate pieces instead, with the floor and sides as one print, and the roof as another print, to either be glued or clipped together?
I'd think that would avoid the warping problem altogether, plus save wasted filament. Though in all fairness, it would still be nice to learn what's causing the warping anyways, for sake of future prints..
mortalic@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 99d
Being honest, I'd printed this 5 or 6 times before with the default supports. Most of the time it was fine but the last two times it was falling over and basically making a messy bridge. So I tried organic supports, which is what we see here.