Hey folks!
I'm looking to move from my cyclocross bike to an e-bike for my commuter. I have a pretty awful knee, and while it doesn't always bother me while I ride, on a commute to the local bus/train the hills can occasionally get damn uncomfortable and turn into stopping to walk my bike up, or having to pedal with a single leg while I stretch and move the other on flats.
So I'm looking to an e-bike as the option. As someone heavy on the DIY and with a strong preference against proprietary, I'm hopeful to find something that:
- Has an easily replaceable battery, bonus for an assembly that I can rebuild with new 18650s or whatever, and a plug-in style connection for ease. Lets head off questions here by saying this would not be my first battery pack build, and I've got dozens of 18650's on hand.
- Is flexible as a commuter. I have commuted with my cyclocross bike all through the winter, which wasn't terrible with road tires but did have me switching wheels out. I wouldn't mind fat, I'm not out there for very long distance or speed anymore. Maybe one day I'll be up for a century again, but thats real low on my list.
- Has utility - one of the reasons I went cyclocross for my commuter was having a lot of mount points. I don't need a daily cargo haul here, but I like my mount points for flexibility.
- Has a long lifespan with maintenance and repairs. I've got bikes from the 70's and 80's that are still doing well (though I wish my wife liked the Fuji more, she is more comfortable in a hybrid style than road though). I want a frame that lasts, a motor that can be replaced without losing my marbles, I don't have any interest in built in lights that are just going to break and become useless because its all sealed, etc.
I think what I'd want is a combo pedal assist and throttle as an option, and a cadence sensor. A torque sensor I think would be more of an issue for my knee. If I can adjust the assist or just turn it off, I think thats the ideal, but welcome some input here.
Folding is a non-issue, I have a place for the bike to go and would want to take the battery with me to charge.
In terms of budget, I'll call it mid-range ($2k-ish) but if there is a fantastic option at $3500 I'm fine with that. Likewise, I'm not going to stick my nose up at an $800 option if all I need to do is add a few things or upgrade a motor if it ticks all the other boxes.
Any recommendations worth looking at would be welcome!
Edit: Northeast US for the record
23 Comments
MajorMajormajormajor@lemmy.ca · 5 pts · 15h
Op, have you looked into converting a bike you already have to electric? I did that during covid and I'm still rocking the same battery and motor with no issues. It's much cheaper than buying premade, but takes a small amount of diy skill (which you seem to have).
You can customise what you want as far as mid drive vs wheel drive, battery size, motor size, etc.
That's just one example, there are many different sources to find what you need. If you find an all in one source it'll be easier, but you can buy from different sources if need be.
I had to buy a bottom bracket socket to install the motor, if you go mid drive don't forget that as well.
curbstickle@anarchist.nexus · 3 pts · 13h
Ok, so love the idea here of building up, my only concern with the link is 900 options and not having a damn bit of knowledge of any of the manufacturers, and if I do go out and say pick up a used trek farley, are there better configs here in terms of kit? Problems to avoid by choosing different bars?
I have come across a lot of blogs and what just looks like manufacturer sponsored articles, but not great resources on the DIY options aside from "Well I found this for my bike so its what I did", which can suck a bit to navigate and find what works :)
MajorMajormajormajor@lemmy.ca · 2 pts · 12h
So it depends on personal preference for a lot of the choices.
I went for bafang mid drive for the motor and have had good results. Gives better weight distribution with a lower centre of gravity, but mid drive motors chew through chains quicker. Rear drives don't, but more rear weight and a bit more involved to repair the wheel in the future.
Also depends on local laws on motor size, there can be restrictions on wattage.
For battery I choose 48v and a larger Amphour capacity because of commute distance, but it's more weight to move around.
Also, depends on your use case. If it's just for trails (I believe) the laws don't apply and you can have whatever size motor.
curbstickle@anarchist.nexus · 2 pts · 14h
I think no matter what I'm going to swap things around so I'm less forward and a bit more upright, but I'm not against the idea of building at all.
wopalopa@lemmy.world · 5 pts · 14h
if you have a bad knee, i would suggest get a dutch bike and convert it to ebike yourself. bafang converter kit is pretty cheap and can take even homemade battery if you can weld them yourself.
i once rented dutch ebike in japan and absolutely love it. so i prob going to make it myself when my current ebike gives out
scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech · 3 pts · 14h
Just going to say I just got a Bulls and love it. Very comfortable at long ranges, I like the configurable motor, the Bosch motor and ebike system is pretty great.
hallettj@leminal.space · 3 pts · 14h
A torque sensor doesn't necessarily require pushing harder. It's more that it detects your intent to turn the cranks faster by measuring force, and dials up motor output proportionally instead of measuring increased crank speed after the fact. (Although I've heard a lot of cadence sensors don't actually measure crank speed, and simply turn the motor on or off depending on whether you're pedaling or not.)
How hard you have to push depends on the assist level setting. It's like using an exercise bike with adjustable difficulty.
I haven't used a bike that doesn't have a torque sensor, but I think part of the reason people want a throttle is because with only a cadence sensor the motor doesn't start until the cranks are moving so you don't get automatic assistance from a cold start. OTOH a torque sensor gives assist as soon as you put a little weight on the pedal, so a cold start feels effortless.
humanspiral@lemmy.ca · 1 pts · 8h
You want cadence sensor and throttle if you care about range. You can get to pedal as hard as you want without making the bike go faster than you want.
hallettj@leminal.space · 1 pts · 6h
With a torque sensor you can put a cap on motor power for the lowest assist setting and get basically the same range saving. I think my Shimano motor controller maxes out at about half of the possible motor power on the eco setting, and that can be configured up or down.
humanspiral@lemmy.ca · 1 pts · 3h
for my taste, 28-32kmh is the speed I want on roads with stop signs. slower while pedaling uphill is fine, but pedaling downhill doesn't mean I want superspeed. Sure you can max at 250w, for similar speed range on flat, but its too fast downhill. The better PAS controllers support 9 levels, which is better suited to fine tune cadence speed levels. I haven't seen that option paired with torque sensing ebikes.
njordomir@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 8h
I rode a bike without a torque sensor. It was an Aventon quite a few years back. The power of the bike seemed to match the number selected on the bars every time. You just turn the cranks to move the little magnets past the sensor so the power doesn't cut. I also rode a Specialized bike with the cadance sensor and fell in love with the feeling of no motor, but really strong legs. The motor is there, you just can't feel it because it scales instantaneously and perfectly.
njordomir@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 9h
Assuming US location as I didn't see it in the post.
I have bought a few ebikes over the years and tried a LOT more while shopping or riding with friends. If you are very attached to your current frame style visit your nearest specialty bike shop (the kind that sells uncommon things like handbikes, recumbents, etc.). Some of these guys, at least near me, can add a motor to an existing frame for you. It may not be the cheapest option (that's often Aventon, unless you want to go Temu cheap), but it's an option that gives a lot of flexibility. On the build I saw, the shop used a Bafang motor. Everything on the control unit was programmable from the wheel size to the assist levels. It dusts my 250W mid drive lightweight ebike. It can be configured to be any of the 3 ebike classes. That may tickle your DIY daydreams a little.
curbstickle@anarchist.nexus · 1 pts · 8h
Fair point and added location in - yes, northeast US.
And the DIY is less daydream and more preference on being repairable. The Treks and such I've seen have all had built in batteries, dealer only servicing, etc - thats just going to end up in a landfill and I hate it.
I'd rather go repair-friendly from the start.
njordomir@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 7h
That's the part that rings true for me. I am very pro right to repair. I like concepts like the framework laptop, fixing my own oven, etc. I specifically take issue with vendor lock-in and sell it cheap/break it often/gouge for parts business models that seem to be out of control right now. I went in wanting to vet the manufacturers for their behaviors around right to repair and found it very difficult to do. You kind of had DIY, you had established bike brands, and you had Amazon/Temu/AliExpress/Walmart. Oddly, considering my preferences, I ended up with a bike from a major reputable brand, and it has an integrated battery that I can't remove without tools, and the bike is mostly serviced by their dealer, but they're also the most well-liked bike shop in town. I haven't had any major repairs on the "e" side of e-bike aside from a firmware update because it was throwing an error code, possibly due to the coin cell battery in the on switch running out (now I know). I bring it inside during the coldest months of winter. It's probably been at least 5 years now. It rides great, the only maintenance I do is lubing the chain and taking it to the shop at the start of Spring.
Part of me feels like I should have stood on principle and waited for the perfectly tuneable, open-source hardware e-bike in a box that I could order and hack to my hearts content with cheap parts and user developed add-ons. Part of me is glad I just bought a bike I liked and got to ride thousands of stress-relieving miles during a few of the most difficult years of my life.
I guess what I'm trying to say is I admire and share your principles and priorities, and I hope your quest for a right to repair friendly ebike ends in a more principled place than mine. 🤣
tunetardis@piefed.ca · 2 pts · 11h
If you love your current bike, I guess an e-bike conversion is something to consider?
I ride a fat tire Aventon. Not so sure that was a good call? I was hoping it would be good in the winter. It does handle well in light snow, but has a fishtailing problem when there is ice. I'm actually considering borrowing my wife's e-trike this winter. Being a 3-wheeler, it's never going to slide out from under me at least, and it's a front-wheel drive which might also help? But I guess time will tell.
_haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works · 2 pts · 11h
Priority Current+ might be up your alley, but IMO you should focus on buying something that works for you and something that is supported by your local bike shop(s) so you can get warranty repairs with minimal hassle, maintenance, parts, etc. If you go with just about any established bike brand that hasn't been bought out by a venture capital firm, you should be in pretty good shape (think Trek, Marin, Giant, Priority, Specialized, etc.)
Also, I'm going to go ahead and feature your post so you can get more feedback. Good luck!
curbstickle@anarchist.nexus · 2 pts · 9h
Thanks! Will check it out
I do pretty much all work on all my bikes myself, so if I go the custom build route I'll be fine. That said, I've got a Trek shop, a nice local shop that started in a garage and just opened a storefront (bianchi, basso, cinelli, ventum, etc), my old town shop (salsa, fuji, bulls, batch, surly, etc), so I've got a pretty wide variety of options.
I'm even considering a crap frame to toy with before going to something I'll like more, its kind of all open for consideration at the moment.
_haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works · 1 pts · 9h
If you're mechanically inclined, a conversion kit might be the way to go. Bafang is a popular choice, just be sure to get quality batteries too.
RBWells@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 10h
I have been commuting for 2 years on my $2k Velotric Discover 2. Battery pops right out and back in, if I'm parking somewhere sketchy I can take it out. It doesn't get very cold here usually but we had a couple of freezing days and it did fine. I have ridden it plenty of times in the rain too. I use torque sensor but it can use either.
No idea how long it will go but no problem yet, I did get new tires and brakes at the 2 year mark.
It's big, more of a cruiser but that works better for commuting IMO. Has a throttle but I set it on medium assist and pedal, feels like a dream.
curbstickle@anarchist.nexus · 2 pts · 9h
Looks like Velotric is in a shop about 10 min away, will check it out! Thanks
RBWells@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 9h
I got it with the great big basket on the back, too. Holds my work stuff or two big bags of groceries. Work lets me park it in the office.
humanspiral@lemmy.ca · 2 pts · 8h
Lectric has plenty of options from fat tire to lighter road commuter oriented. The styles are suitable for pedaling with lower handlebars and high seat. The fat 20" tire format they somewhat invented has plenty of clones, and adds sturdy rack/paneer utility. 750w 48v is plenty, under 70lbs is still good even if you never have to lift it anywhere. Battery formats are often standardized with Chinese replacement shell formats, but you need to research every brand. You do need a 2nd battery for convenience and "gentleness of charging" 2amp charger is fine.
fubarx@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 9h
Have really liked the Velotric Fold 1+. Put around 800 miles on it so far. Has software selectable torque and cadence sensors. Plus on-handle USB-C port for phone charging and built-in Find My.
The nice thing about folding is that it can fit in the back of a car so you can do fun rides that start far away, without having to get a rack (hitch + eBike rack adds $$$). For commuting, not as important. Easily removable battery. Full spare is bulky and $$$, but it uses 18650s. IPX6 rating. They claim 68 mile range, but actual is 30 (all bikes exaggerate on range).
I'd definitely look into a telescoping seat. They're around $30 online. And a CamelBak water backpack. Good for hydration, carrying tools, firstaid kit, snacks, and heavy lock if planning to stop. Haven't had it long enough for breakage, so no idea about DIY repairs. For any bike, would definitely look for local dealer, in case it needs parts replacement.
If I had to get one today, I'd look for: