I have always wanted to try printing larger, using a bigger nozzle - just got around to swapping to a .6mm in my MK3S+. Printed a gift for a childhood friend. 300% size. Took just under 10 hrs. With the slicer settings on .4mm it was over 17hrs.
I have always wanted to try printing larger, using a bigger nozzle - just got around to swapping to a .6mm in my MK3S+. Printed a gift for a childhood friend. 300% size. Took just under 10 hrs. With the slicer settings on .4mm it was over 17hrs.
19 Comments
RubberElectrons@lemmy.world · 8 pts · 2y
When it works, it's pretty great. I've got a weird overextrusion issue to fix on my MK3S+ with the 0.6 nozzle, but the prints themselves are tougher and faster.
Contend6248@feddit.de · 2 pts · 2y
Did you play around with different filament settings or presets? Most importantly extrusion multiplier?
Measuring the filament might be a good idea too, maybe slight differences are becoming visual with a bigger nozzle
RubberElectrons@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
Thanks for the ideas, yeah I've tried playing around with the presets and such, and I'm fairly certain the filament itself is good, matterhackers pro PETG.
When I have a moment I'll be trying to make an extrusion tower to test settings.
Aux@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
PETG is very leaky. It's not a big deal with 0.4, but becomes a pain with 0.6. Try to set a higher printing speed.
Poringo@lemmy.zip · 6 pts · 2y
I've been using 0.6 for some time, I normally do functional prints. It is a good compromise between speed and quality.
TwanHE@lemmy.world · 4 pts · 2y
Ever since Arachne came out .4 became obsolete for me. If you play with the settings right a .6 can produce nearly the same small details while being way faster for infill etc.
Thanks4Nothing@lemm.ee · 2 pts · 2y
Can I ask what settings you had to hone in?
TwanHE@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
I lowered minimum wall width and wall transition length.
AuroraBorealis@pawb.social · 2 pts · 2y
How did that print so well without any supports?
Thanks4Nothing@lemm.ee · 1 pts · 2y
That is a very good question. There aren't any insane overhangs, just a few tricky spots. I had print he same thing smaller, so I knew it would be okay. I think the file actually mentioned in the notes that you COULD print it without support.
Contend6248@feddit.de · 1 pts · 2y
I was shocked too at first, but then i realized the same thing, i don't see anything problematic, what a great model
Thanks4Nothing@lemm.ee · 2 pts · 2y
I had to dig to find where I got the model from. I suppose I should add the link in case anybody wants to give them kudos or print it for themselves.
It was created by Rocket Pig Games: Printables link
NoRamyunForYou@lemmy.nz · 2 pts · 2y
Like many others on here, my stock is now 0.6mm
I've also tried a 0.8mm which is amazing haha. Though it definitely has it's limitations, so I usually just stick with 0.6mm
twack@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
I also use .6 as my standard nozzle. Since the stuff I print is usually custom brackets and cases, a bigger nozzle would be even more ideal. The problem is my stock heating can't keep up with anything larger than a .6
Thanks4Nothing@lemm.ee · 1 pts · 2y
What printer and hot end?
twack@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
It's an ender 3 pro with the stock hot end, but it's also running klipper and prints at 60mm/s
Rodeo@lemmy.ca · 2 pts · 2y
I have the same setup and with a bigger nozzle I found it useful to use auto speed and max volumetric flow, rather than speed. I found the hotend reaches its flow capacity before speed becomes an issue.
twack@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y
What slicer are you using? I'm using Cura and I vaguely remember that being the reason why I didn't do that.
Rodeo@lemmy.ca · 2 pts · 2y
I've been using super slicer, but it's a fork of prusa slicer and I'm pretty sure the auto speed feature is a prusa slicer thing.