I see. It seems a good option for an enclosed printer for the price. I feel a bit uncomfortable with manufacturers selling machines with locked down open source software though 😖
I cancelled the other objects that were supposed to print after, but left these because I thought any damage would be done already. Luckily, no damage and no waste!
I think I'll try printing cooler first. Hopefully the smaller temp difference will help.
I haven't tried any GF or CF filament. I'm a bit afraid of it, honestly. I've had fibres from sheets of fibre glass stuck in my skin for ages. I just try to avoid it 😆
I was tightening a nozzle on a spare hotend and wanted to check it was hot enough while I did it. It was easiest to plug it into the chamber thermistor port. I realised it looked a bit silly and thought it was worth a post 😂
I genuinely do have trouble with sunlu abs coming unstuck. My chamber is 60°C, and my parts are hard to remove from the bed when they don't warp, which I think suggests my build plate is good. Have you / are you using Sunlu abs?
I highly doubt your nozzle is worn out unless you've been printing with any special tough filament (e.g. carbon fibre core). It's completely different machine, but I have over 300 hours on mine and I haven't had to replace the original brass nozzle yet.
Edit: Perhaps try printing a solid section of only the first layer (no need for the whole bed, but make is fairly large). See if the lines mostly all join up, then reprint without changing anything to check if it is consistent.
I found the fuse, but it wasn't blown 🥲
I've looked over the board, and watched some repair videos but I haven't found anything. I've called it dead now.
Nope, no signs of life with the battery removed and on wall power only. I believe the battery was not to blame, but something went wrong that caused it to also drain the battery. I will check the battery anyway and report back if I find anything interesting. Thanks for the helpful link.
Ah, I realise my wording was very confusing there. I meant: Because the inductor is NOT the problem - I don't have any idea what the problem is - therefore the LAPTOP is dead (not the inductor)😂
I just thought I’d add some info for documentation’s sake. I now have a 100W LDO bed (8mm) thick.
Starting with the bed and chamber at 18.6°C (pretty cold)
Note: The target temp was set to 110°C to avoid slowing the heat-up to stop on 100°C
Of course 😄 I was only being silly
Alternative title: "GNOME 51 Beta released, with no major improvement"
/s 😜
Guess we'll just have to wait 😄
Why can't it say what the job is 🧐🧐🧐
I don't think there is really. I haven't even encountered many good Foss launchers except Lawnchair.
I see. It seems a good option for an enclosed printer for the price. I feel a bit uncomfortable with manufacturers selling machines with locked down open source software though 😖
Does the Kobra use Klipper, and do you have SSH access?
[Solved], but what was your solution 👀
Ty 🖐️😁
Waydroid: a container-based approach to boot a full Android system on GNU/Linux
Zero click here - basically a klicky too! Fantastic if you don't feel like using a build plate.
I cancelled the other objects that were supposed to print after, but left these because I thought any damage would be done already. Luckily, no damage and no waste!
What sort of probe were you using on your ender?
I think I'll try printing cooler first. Hopefully the smaller temp difference will help.
I haven't tried any GF or CF filament. I'm a bit afraid of it, honestly. I've had fibres from sheets of fibre glass stuck in my skin for ages. I just try to avoid it 😆
I was tightening a nozzle on a spare hotend and wanted to check it was hot enough while I did it. It was easiest to plug it into the chamber thermistor port. I realised it looked a bit silly and thought it was worth a post 😂
I genuinely do have trouble with sunlu abs coming unstuck. My chamber is 60°C, and my parts are hard to remove from the bed when they don't warp, which I think suggests my build plate is good. Have you / are you using Sunlu abs?
I highly doubt your nozzle is worn out unless you've been printing with any special tough filament (e.g. carbon fibre core). It's completely different machine, but I have over 300 hours on mine and I haven't had to replace the original brass nozzle yet.
Edit: Perhaps try printing a solid section of only the first layer (no need for the whole bed, but make is fairly large). See if the lines mostly all join up, then reprint without changing anything to check if it is consistent.
I found the fuse, but it wasn't blown 🥲 I've looked over the board, and watched some repair videos but I haven't found anything. I've called it dead now.
Nope, no signs of life with the battery removed and on wall power only. I believe the battery was not to blame, but something went wrong that caused it to also drain the battery. I will check the battery anyway and report back if I find anything interesting. Thanks for the helpful link.
Ah, I realise my wording was very confusing there. I meant: Because the inductor is NOT the problem - I don't have any idea what the problem is - therefore the LAPTOP is dead (not the inductor)😂
That's a great tip, but unfortunately the power supply is not turning off. I will refer to this next time though 👌