I got the 30 amp. My thought was that the motor uses up to around 20 watts when running so a little more than 1 amp, and as far as I can tell, it tries to pull around 6-10 amps(!) when stalled/almost stalled.
I think this should mean a fairly large spike, that I should be able to detect even with the 30A device.
But of course it is probably just absurd overkill, and will make my life more complicated. Fortunately they are absurdly cheap and easy to buy, so if the resolution turns out to be a problem, I can get another range, when I have some empirical data.
The other ranges should plug in, in the same place right?
Thanks. It has been fun, both doing the software, where I feel at home, but also the challenge of trying to do electronics, where I am completely lost :D You can't imagine the amount of DC converters I have burnt out, or my absolute confusion why I couldn't turn a motor on and off using a couple of relays! I must confess I still don't understand, but at least now I know.
Is it correctly understood that the "Sense" line can be hooked up directly to the ADC input on the Pico?
Now, just because I am quite ignorant when it comes to all this, I will venture to ask:
This is better because it is closer/faster/more exact than using the Hall current sensor, or?
With my complete lack of understanding, I had the impression, that I could more or less "just" connect the sensor to the "right spots" and directly to the ADC input on the Pico, and my work in the Pico would be similar to this setup?
Don't get me wrong - I can see this is much more elegant - and won't be bothered by whatever else might use power on the same rail. But since it might be simpler for me to use a more "out of the box" component like the sensor, instead of my bad soldering of several discrete components... Also however ridiculous it might seem it is much easier for me to source 5 modules - than 5 of each of these components (I would have to buy many of each, and waste most).
OK... I understand very little of this :( I am a software person. But could this comparison not be done with some hysteresis?
The part count is not important as long as the parts aren't terribly expensive, since this is exclusively for my personal use.
It is a networked window opener/closer for my house, all with parts sourced from China, since the commercially available openers are very overpriced IMHO. Which I guess also speaks a lot to the fact that I am a man with more time than money...
That sounds very cool - and way beyond my own understanding :-)
Is this something you could actually help with sketching out for me?
I found the datasheet for the L298 and I can see that for my use (I am using just out 1 and out 2) it should be pin 1 (Sense A) that should be relevant, right?
This looks like it is connected to gnd on the driver board (I can easily cut this connection).
Unfortunately I don't understand what a current shunt is? :-)
It has me slightly worried that it says that pin 1 can go to -1v which I think would break the ADC input?
As far as I can tell the ADC input on the PICO accepts from 0 - 3.3v right?
The issue is that if something is blocking the motor, or the limit sensor is not working, the motor should stop before burning itself out or breaking stuff.
I did buy a hall effect current sensor (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006222090940.html) that I was thinking of connecting to the pi pico on an interrupt enabled pin, so I could cut off the engine output at the source, and alert my upstream controller. But I just couldn't wrap my head around how to implement it.
Another option that I considered was putting some kind of fuse on the 18v rail and try to figure out how to detect if the 18v rail was dead and feed that to the pico - but then I'm not really sure how much simpler (if at all) that would be.
I don't quite get this. The human head, like the globe, is not flat. Shouldn't that be reflected in the projections?
When projecting the earth in Mercator, we see the whole earth, not simply a "profile" of earth. I would expect a projection of a head to include the whole surface of the head, not a simple profile.
How is this actually factual?
Ah, outlets are around 15usd for the cheapest here and look like this:
And then we need the box, which is also around 15usd.
So maybe 1.500usd, which is quite a bit of money for us.
The thing is, regulations don't allow us to simply daisy chain mains voltage without one of those outlets for each link - except maybe if the driver had daisy chaining in it, but I can't seem to find one.
This is why I was hoping to maybe find a driver that would at least let us daisy chain 5 or 6 panels, since I'm allowed to do just about anything I want with DC, it is hardly regulated.
I don't know how you would call them in English, but they are 60cmx60cm panels, with built in LEDs.
They are 60x60 because that is a standard size for ceiling panels here. So you can just take out a ceiling panel and put in one of these LED panels instead.
The driver is external - mainly so you can choose different types of dimming (simple or DALI mostly).
I am considering using a common driver for several panels, to save money (the club is not for profit, we don't have a lot of money) mainly on lighting sockets. Having to buy and set up 50 sockets instead of 10, can be a good chunk of money.
I hope this makes sense. I have no experience with AC, only low power DC.
Thank you again for diving in to this. It looks like speechify don't support Danish.
On Resemble AI, they have something like Elevenlabs:
For professional voice cloning through data upload, we require explicit, verifiable consent from the voice talent. This involves providing a clear audio consent statement along with the training data, so that we can confirm the identity. By uploading voice data, you're confirming that you have such consent, which should align with our guidelines. The consent recording must follow our template, e.g., "I acknowledge my recordings will be used by [Your Company] to create a synthetic voice by Resemble AI." For any questions regarding consent, please reach out to us.
I will try to contact them regarding my use, which is neither commercial, nor using "voice talent" exactly.
Where are there e ink panels on the shelf?
I got the 30 amp. My thought was that the motor uses up to around 20 watts when running so a little more than 1 amp, and as far as I can tell, it tries to pull around 6-10 amps(!) when stalled/almost stalled. I think this should mean a fairly large spike, that I should be able to detect even with the 30A device.
But of course it is probably just absurd overkill, and will make my life more complicated. Fortunately they are absurdly cheap and easy to buy, so if the resolution turns out to be a problem, I can get another range, when I have some empirical data. The other ranges should plug in, in the same place right?
Thanks again!
Does this look OK, to your trained eye then?
Thanks. It has been fun, both doing the software, where I feel at home, but also the challenge of trying to do electronics, where I am completely lost :D You can't imagine the amount of DC converters I have burnt out, or my absolute confusion why I couldn't turn a motor on and off using a couple of relays! I must confess I still don't understand, but at least now I know.
Sorry I forgot to ask: I should cut the SENSE-A connection to ground right?
Oh, wow!
Very nice! Thank you so much for doing this!
Is it correctly understood that the "Sense" line can be hooked up directly to the ADC input on the Pico?
Now, just because I am quite ignorant when it comes to all this, I will venture to ask: This is better because it is closer/faster/more exact than using the Hall current sensor, or? With my complete lack of understanding, I had the impression, that I could more or less "just" connect the sensor to the "right spots" and directly to the ADC input on the Pico, and my work in the Pico would be similar to this setup?
Don't get me wrong - I can see this is much more elegant - and won't be bothered by whatever else might use power on the same rail. But since it might be simpler for me to use a more "out of the box" component like the sensor, instead of my bad soldering of several discrete components... Also however ridiculous it might seem it is much easier for me to source 5 modules - than 5 of each of these components (I would have to buy many of each, and waste most).
So I have to ask. :-)
OK... I understand very little of this :( I am a software person. But could this comparison not be done with some hysteresis? The part count is not important as long as the parts aren't terribly expensive, since this is exclusively for my personal use.
It is a networked window opener/closer for my house, all with parts sourced from China, since the commercially available openers are very overpriced IMHO. Which I guess also speaks a lot to the fact that I am a man with more time than money...
That sounds very cool - and way beyond my own understanding :-)
Is this something you could actually help with sketching out for me?
I found the datasheet for the L298 and I can see that for my use (I am using just out 1 and out 2) it should be pin 1 (Sense A) that should be relevant, right?
This looks like it is connected to gnd on the driver board (I can easily cut this connection).
Unfortunately I don't understand what a current shunt is? :-)
It has me slightly worried that it says that pin 1 can go to -1v which I think would break the ADC input?
As far as I can tell the ADC input on the PICO accepts from 0 - 3.3v right?
Thanks a bunch for looking at this!
Ah... Since I am not a smart man, I have already invested too much (for the project) in several of these motor drivers. :-(
Thanks for taking time to look at this! :)
The issue is that if something is blocking the motor, or the limit sensor is not working, the motor should stop before burning itself out or breaking stuff.
I did buy a hall effect current sensor (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006222090940.html) that I was thinking of connecting to the pi pico on an interrupt enabled pin, so I could cut off the engine output at the source, and alert my upstream controller. But I just couldn't wrap my head around how to implement it.
Another option that I considered was putting some kind of fuse on the 18v rail and try to figure out how to detect if the 18v rail was dead and feed that to the pico - but then I'm not really sure how much simpler (if at all) that would be.
The picos inputs are 3.3v btw.
I don't quite get this. The human head, like the globe, is not flat. Shouldn't that be reflected in the projections? When projecting the earth in Mercator, we see the whole earth, not simply a "profile" of earth. I would expect a projection of a head to include the whole surface of the head, not a simple profile. How is this actually factual?
Ah, outlets are around 15usd for the cheapest here and look like this:
And then we need the box, which is also around 15usd.
So maybe 1.500usd, which is quite a bit of money for us.
The thing is, regulations don't allow us to simply daisy chain mains voltage without one of those outlets for each link - except maybe if the driver had daisy chaining in it, but I can't seem to find one.
This is why I was hoping to maybe find a driver that would at least let us daisy chain 5 or 6 panels, since I'm allowed to do just about anything I want with DC, it is hardly regulated.
Here's an image of a panel and default driver:
I don't know how you would call them in English, but they are 60cmx60cm panels, with built in LEDs. They are 60x60 because that is a standard size for ceiling panels here. So you can just take out a ceiling panel and put in one of these LED panels instead. The driver is external - mainly so you can choose different types of dimming (simple or DALI mostly). I am considering using a common driver for several panels, to save money (the club is not for profit, we don't have a lot of money) mainly on lighting sockets. Having to buy and set up 50 sockets instead of 10, can be a good chunk of money. I hope this makes sense. I have no experience with AC, only low power DC.
The Hamburdler for McPresident
Thank you again for diving in to this. It looks like speechify don't support Danish.
On Resemble AI, they have something like Elevenlabs:
For professional voice cloning through data upload, we require explicit, verifiable consent from the voice talent. This involves providing a clear audio consent statement along with the training data, so that we can confirm the identity. By uploading voice data, you're confirming that you have such consent, which should align with our guidelines. The consent recording must follow our template, e.g., "I acknowledge my recordings will be used by [Your Company] to create a synthetic voice by Resemble AI." For any questions regarding consent, please reach out to us.
I will try to contact them regarding my use, which is neither commercial, nor using "voice talent" exactly.
This project looks very cool, but at 300usd+ I think it is out my budget range for this project.
Was this with the "Instant voice clone"?
Looks very cool. I was unable to see anything regarding languages. Is it completely language independent somehow, or is it English only?