mptsounds

u/mptsounds@lemmy.world
2 posts · 19 comments

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Good point! I've been considering to print a TPU "sock" of some kind to put on top of a FDM/SLA printed keycap to mimic a silicone (or silicone-like) keycaps, just to see what it feels like. Maybe it's better to make a mold to try other materials too!

Nice idea! Do you mean on top of the switch plate? I'm still brainstorming the design, but it will have a removable layer on top of the plate to hide the switches' legs (I don't like that "naked" feel) & keep some dust from falling inside the kb.

Hmm what's the rationale to print the plate with FDM? Are SLA plates brittle or inflexible? (if printed with ABS)? I don't have much experience with SLA. And good point, I'll check Thingiverse for the thickness.

Thanks for the input. I'll definitely spray paint the SLA parts. Not sure if spray painted keycaps will feel more "slippery" but I'll test first with some of them.

Good point with the TPU. I'm not sure what's available, but probably Ninjaflex (so 85A?)

Sorry, just updated my post for more clarity. Essentially, I found a temporary workaround (replaced that failed battery), and I'm considering a permanent solution for my next build/upgrade, which is to somehow power the board at 3.7 V with common batteries (AA, AAA or rechargeable AA/AAA-sized LiPos), or a power bank.

Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for!

And yes, my keyboard did work fine on wired mode for a while (using ZMK), but because I had to constantly plug and unplug the USB C cable while transporting the keyboard over several months, the port became loose over time. Having a magnetic USB adapter could solve that problem next time.