c/3dprinting · by spckls@lemmy.world · 2y

Print failed successfully!

Turned on retraction speed to 11 and i guess it wore down the filament at one part but then managed to push it after some 10 minutes of spaghetti 👌

516 points · 36 comments · view on lemmy.world

36 Comments

unexposedhazard@discuss.tchncs.de · 87 pts · 2y (4 replies)

Thats pretty amazing tbh. You could call that art imo. Like in some philosophical "Building yourself back up after failure" type of way

WarmSoda@lemm.ee · 18 pts · 2y (1 reply)

I agree. Spruce it up and it'll be art.

spckls@lemmy.world · 11 pts · 2y

Maybe i should make a printable model but preserve the “original” “art” “design” 🧐

XEAL@lemm.ee · 8 pts · 2y (1 reply)

I see it more like a person who says "I'm fine" but it's a mess inside.

666dollarfootlong@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 2y

I think your vision fits for average person WHO doesn't know how 3d printing works, and that previous one fits someone who understands 3d printing

FredericChopin_@feddit.uk · 32 pts · 2y (1 reply)

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spckls@lemmy.world · 25 pts · 2y

Cooling fan cooled the spaghetti, and when enough got formed, outer perimeters started building the Z support. After some time, the infill actually caught to the flying spaghetti and created a “solid” bottom layer upon other layers managed to stick. Due to the flexible nature of spaghetti structure, the printed part was wobbling quite much and couldn’t retain the dimensional accuracy 😕

FuglyDuck@lemmy.world · 28 pts · 2y (4 replies)

That is a work of art.

Definitely belongs on the wall of “this should be shame but I’m really quite proud”

We all have that shelf, right?

spckls@lemmy.world · 21 pts · 2y (3 replies)

I used to have it but then i just had to throw everything away. Something something why is this junk in our house something something angry wife…

Fogle@lemmy.ca · 7 pts · 2y (2 replies)

Put it next to your live laugh love poster

WarmSoda@lemm.ee · 4 pts · 2y (1 reply)

My sister has that directly on the walls.

Nahvi@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 2y

I had no idea this was a thing despite also having it directly on my walls.

When I read your statement, I was like wait... I think that is what my wall says and had to go check.

The lady that lived here before me put that and some other weird word art on the walls. Been meaning to get around to peeling it off and repainting, but keep finding other priorities.

smashboy@kbin.social · 21 pts · 2y (2 replies)

Boi-oi-oing!

IndiBrony@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 2y (1 reply)

Boioioioing!

PipedLinkBot@feddit.rocks · 2 pts · 2y

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Anticorp@lemmy.ml · 15 pts · 2y

I was just at an art exhibit last week, and I'm confident you should put this in an exhibit. It perfectly represents the stages of a website or software project.

HootinNHollerin@sh.itjust.works · 15 pts · 2y (3 replies)

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spckls@lemmy.world · 8 pts · 2y (2 replies)

We should make a whole keyboard out of this!

Gordon@lemmy.world · 4 pts · 2y (1 reply)

MechanicalKeyboards folks are LIVID right now.

HootinNHollerin@sh.itjust.works · 2 pts · 2y

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igorlogius@lemmy.world · 12 pts · 2y

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lemann@lemmy.one · 9 pts · 2y (12 replies)

Anyone aware if that be re-melted or recycled back into filament, or is it pretty much done for?

If I had a 3D printer this would be nightmare fuel after waiting X hours for the print to complete lol

cynar@lemmy.world · 12 pts · 2y

In theory, you can remelt. Unfortunately, the practicalities mean it's not viable. Each remelt cycle degrades the plastic itself, so you can only put 20% or so 'old' plastic into the mix. Combined with the game of plasticisers (to remove brittleness) and reliable forming, even commercial systems struggle, let alone home ones.

If environmental concerns are the issue. It's best to print in uncoloured PLA filament. PLA is corn starch based, and decomposes in a bio reactor environment (it rots quickly in an industrial composter).

As for speed. They are getting impressively fast. A calibration cube takes around 20 minutes, though less than 5 minutes is possible. My machine is effectively fire and forget. They mess around while you are tuning them in, but once you have a good calibration, they now tend to hold it well. You'll sit there watching it in fascination for the first few months, but that wears off.

FredericChopin_@feddit.uk · 11 pts · 2y (9 replies)

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marcos@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 2y (2 replies)

Get an automatic bed leveler.

My printer just sits there, covered. When I want something, I uncover it, clean the printing surface with some alcohol, and tell it to print.

By the way, resin printers have a completely different set of issues. But yeah, they don't have those ones.

FredericChopin_@feddit.uk · 1 pts · 2y (1 reply)

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marcos@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 2y

I have one of those servo sensors that use a microswitch at the end.

The printer has a sturdy frame build from extruded aluminum. That probably makes a lot of difference. I can take the printer, move it into some other surface, turn it on and print, without leveling issues. Before it I had a wooden one without autoleveling. That one needed leveling before each print.

dept@lemmy.sdf.org · 3 pts · 2y

resin printers have the slight issue of being a chemical hazard and requiring PPE.

nothacking@discuss.tchncs.de · 2 pts · 2y

With resin when a print fails, you just get a half print stuck to the bottom of the resin tank, no spaghetti. The most common cause of failure is the part falling of the lifting platform, typical due to poor supports, but rarelybecause the platform is crooked.

Leveling is pretty easy on most printers, just loosen the bed, remove the resin tank, placing some thin cardboard in it's place, lower the platform until it touches the cardboard, and lock it in place.

Theharpyeagle@lemmy.world · 1 pts · 2y (3 replies)

Getting an auto leveler was a game changer for me. I still manually level the bed and check the Z offset every two months or so along with other maintenence, but I've gone on week long printing sprees without touching the bed springs once.

FredericChopin_@feddit.uk · 1 pts · 2y (2 replies)

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chris@l.roofo.cc · 2 pts · 2y (1 reply)

A few tips that made my prints much better:

Check if your rollers are tight enough. None of the axes should wobble if you pull on them
Use a PEI sheet for printing
Clean the PEI Sheet with Soap and Water at least once
Clean with IPA after every print
Don't touch the print bed. The oil on your skin really doesn't help with sticking.
Get yourself a metal feeler gauge with 0.2mm. Level your bed heat nozzel and bed to your normal print temp an then move the nozzel 0.2 mm above the bed. Adjust your Z Offset until you can get the metal gauge undr the nozzle but still feel it touching. that should be your perfect height
If you still have problems try all the steps here one after another: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

I used to have a lot of problems with parts lifting up or my prints being unclean but since I did this my prints look great and stick to the bed.

FredericChopin_@feddit.uk · 1 pts · 2y

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spckls@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 2y

You get used to that being a possibility with every print. That’s why you should do everything in your power to have your printer always in shape and operational, although sometimes it will happen no matter what!

Unfortuneatly, this is just waste, straight to the bin.

Bloodwoodsrisen@lemmy.tf · 6 pts · 2y (2 replies)

Is it still a 20mm cube?

spckls@lemmy.world · 9 pts · 2y

This was max acceleration / max speed test, it’s a 30mm cube (scaled)

marcos@lemmy.world · 3 pts · 2y

Not really a cube, that's certain.

But unless it's losing steps, the printer just can't make that top layer in any other height.

FlyingSquid@lemmy.world · 5 pts · 2y (5 replies)

Clearly your Printer is not an Elon Musk fan.

spckls@lemmy.world · 2 pts · 2y (4 replies)

I don’t get it 😔 Care to enlighten me?