And now I kinda have 5, but I finally printed something

For adhesion, I prefer to apply a layer of Kapton/polyamide tape to my print bed. You can get it online in big square sheets — while using the typical 1" or 2" wide rolls one stripe at a time to cover the bed is technically possible, and I did it in the early days, it's also a monumental pain in the ass and I advise against it if your budget can stretch to an additional two or three dollars to get the square stuff.

Forget glue stick. It's messy, it produces an uneven thickness, the tubes dry out at inopportune moments, and it's damn near impossible apply both evenly and also in an area that will actually correctly cover the entire footprint of your part. Instead, use cheap hair spray. Aqua Net seems to work best for me. The stuff in the pink cans; the absolute cheapest variety.

Note that on a Kapton surface your adhesion agent is also a release agent for certain materials, most especially Nylon and to a lesser extent PETG. Having that barrier in between your actual Kapton surface and your part will prevent it from molecularly bonding to your plate like the goddamned sword in the stone, forcing you to say several choice cuss words and re-tape your plate (as well as spend an entertaining afternoon scraping or sanding bits of Kapton tape off of the bottom of your print). Kapton and Nylon are both polyamides.

PLA, TPU, ABS/ASA, and polycarbonate can be printed directly onto bare Kapton depending on your level of audacity and/or bravery, especially in the case of the latter two. ABS is infamous for warping and the corners may lift off your bed without adhesive, or indeed even with adhesive... Even if the initial layer stuck to the plate perfectly well.

Note that you will have to raise your Z offset slightly if you apply tape to your bed. I.e., ideally by the thickness of the tape. You might find that you also want to raise your nozzle about 0.015-0.02mm if you've applied a layer of whatever adhesive, and lower it back down after you clean it off. Yes, the infinitesimally thin layer of hair spray will impact your first layer height provided your machine is accurate enough that its first layer offset is not a crapshoot on a per-print basis to begin with.

Purple "School Glue" is all you need. It's cheap and if you work in an elementary school, free for the bending over and picking it up. I've got a life time supply from teaching for a mere 4 years.

Lubrication is kind of an issue. You want to oils over grease. And only a thin coating. You will find that lubricated rods and rails attract dust. A lot of dust with kids and pets. And that dust is VERY abrasive and will chew up the seals on you bearings unless you are constantly wiping and relubing. So, this is a time when less is more.

I use a SuperLube silicone grease to fill the bearings before assembling them onto the rods for my Mk3S. They have wiper seals that are meant to wipe the linear rods as they move and hold the grease in. I never oil those rods. The dust they attract will destroy those wiper seals in short order. I do, however wipe the rods with a dry paper towel before I print. In the 8 years I have owned the machine, I have replaced the bearings just once after about 4 years.

The little Bambu A1 Mini I have has open bearings on their linear rails and rods. Those require wiping clean and relubing with a special high tack oil on a scheduled basis. And yes, they are filthy when I clean them.

That a ficus or a money tree? Either way it should probably be in a bigger pot.