Idk. I've been using my ender 3 v1 without an ABL probe of any kind just fine. The main problems occur when the shitty stock buildplate (the super thin buildtak one held on with binder clips) warps under high heat and you have to contend with high spots. Getting a probe could have solved the problem, but I just swapped over to a magnetic spring steel PEI buildplate, and after a bit of live leveling, I've printed things using the full buildplate once or twice so far with proper adhesion throughout. The only thing that I needed to do to use that was to stick a magnetic sticker on the stock aluminum bed. If OP needs a link, this is the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Flexible-Heated-235x235mm-Ender/dp/B07XBM24HN
Would an ABL sensor be nice to have? Absolutely. But you can technically do without it if your buildplate isn't warped and you are very good at live leveling.
Oh, I also have the stiffer yellow springs installed, which helps the bed stay more level than the stock springs. That probably helps as well.
This Kindle was arguably one of the turning points in e-reader history. A few years earlier, the original Kindle had launched for $399. Now Amazon had pushed a competent E Ink reader below $80, partly because advertising subsidized the hardware.
This price drop must be part of the reason why my Dad bought one of these ad supported kindle 4's way back when. He used it for a little while before he finally got a smartphone through work I think. At some point he took that kindle to work and left it in a drawer for years.
About a year ago, I saw this video about kindle jailbreaking (the dammit jeff one if you are familiar) and decided I wanted to give it a shot since I love jailbreaking old game consoles. I asked him about it and he brought it home from work. I had to charge it up for a while to get it to turn on, but it seems like the original battery is still going strong after 15 years.
Once I got KOreader working on it, having a dedicated eink reader has had me reading more than I have since elementary school. Not having a keyboard (either physical or touchscreen) is a bit annoying, but I will probably use this kindle until nobody makes replacement batteries for it anymore... At that point I'll buy something more open source and not made by Amazon.
I like my full size keychron keyboard with hot swap sockets personally (edit: mine is the keychron V6). Haven't tried many other "good" keyboards firsthand. They have all sorts of different sizes of keyboard available if you want something more compact. They sell their keyboards both as pre built and "barebones" (ie no keycaps or switches) with the idea that you can select the ideal switches for you and a set of keycaps that are the profile/aesthetic you are looking for.
Try to get one of their keyboards with QMK/VIA support. It's an open source keyboard firmware that you can compile and modify yourself. And since it's open source firmware, the likelihood that there is a keylogger or something snooping on what you're typing is incredibly slim ;)
With hard drives specifically it would cause the arm inside to move and scratch the disk.
Really? I thought magnets placed near hard drives would just magnitize the platters in such a way that the data would be destroyed. In that case it would still work if reformatted I think.
Oh FreeCAD definitely works in strange ways, mainly in the UX department, where it still needs work (kinda like GIMP does). Building a model in a broad sense is similar to solidworks (sketches extruded to 3d, cutting off material from there, etc), but understanding which workbench does what and navigating things is kind of a pain, even now.
Then again, it was similarly frustrating when I had to use fusion 360 instead of solidworks for a project. CAD programs are generally complex pieces of software, so it isn't surprising that switching to one you aren't familiar with really slows you down.
Only way I've found to get solidworks to run on Linux is to run a windows 11 VM using virtual machine manager (VMM). Ideally with GPU passthrough, among other optimizations. Kind of runs like shit on my Thinkpad T580 though, which is to be expected for an 8th gen quad core i5 laptop from 2018...
I've tried FreeCAD recently, and it isn't that bad. The latest updates (v1.0 and beyond) have made it much better than it used to be. It helps to watch video guides, as the workflows are a little different. I found this one to be helpful: https://youtube.com/watch?v=9cqs3oTzpac
For what it's worth, lots of phones these days are pretty aggressive with automatic post processing of photos, so the photo could be real (ie not AI generated or edited intentionally with AI) assuming the phone has a lower quality camera sensor with bad detail.
Good to know you didn't experience any issues beyond send to kindle not working anymore. I was concerned because in the past, a different large company (Nintendo) sent out software updates trying to stifle 3DS homebrew years after they stopped pushing updates for the console.
To clarify my use case, I set up an ebook library with calibre on my PC, and I can sync the books in that library over my local WiFi network (aka my LAN) to a kindle that had the correct homebrew software installed. In my case, that is koreader. It makes it easier than using a USB cable to do the same syncing for two reasons: first, you don't need to plug in a cable. Second, with the way the homebrew software works, you can only transfer files via USB when you are using the kindle's native OS. This means I have to exit koreader and wait for it to reboot every time I want to sync with a cable. Using network sync avoids this issue.
The other thing I use WiFi for on my kindle is to access wikipedia. Some of the books I read are older, and sometimes I want to highlight a confusing word and search wikipedia without picking up my phone (this is a function of koreader).
I actually never used Amazon's send to kindle email service. My kindle used to be my Dad's, but I didn't start using it until recently. It's still registered with his account, but the send to kindle functionality hasn't been used on my kindle in years.
On the subject of sending Amazon books to kindle via USB, I don't think any Amazon books can be synced to either of our devices anymore, even with a cable. The main reason they discontinued support for these kindles in the first place is because they were incompatible with new ebook DRM schemes. The DRM compatible with these is trivial to crack. DRM free files not from Amazon should work however.
Perhaps I should ask these questions in the Kindle modding community on lemmy or on the mobileread forums. They might know more about this.
Others already addressed battery cost, so I will address charging time:
For modern EVs, charging time is basically a non-issue outside of longer road trips. Most EV owners utilize a slower (level 1 or level 2) charging station at home, which allows them to charge the car while they are at home/sleeping. EV owners can also use charging stations near/at their destination to charge while they are doing other things anyway. And assuming your daily commute isn't like 100 miles/160 km, you really don't need to stop at charging stations at all besides the one at home, which is cheaper. Obviously this does not apply if you rent a house or live in an apartment, etc.
Even road trips aren't so bad assuming the car has an 800 volt battery pack instead of a 400 volt (higher voltage at same current = more power to charge and faster charge time). It also helps a lot if you only charge to 80 percent instead of 100 because that last 20 percent almost doubles your charge time and is harder on the battery. A lot of new EV owners don't understand this and get frustrated when they are sitting there for 40 minutes getting almost no additional range compared to waiting for 20 minutes.
Let's assume Costco size hot dogs (1/4 lb, or 0.11 kg), with an internal temp increase from fridge temperatures (37 F, or 276 K) to 165 F (347 K). Let's also assume the heat capacity of the hot dog is about 3000 J/kg*K. To heat up a single hot dog takes this much energy:
q=mc*deltaT => q=(0.11 kg)*(3000 J/kg*K)*(347K-276K)=23,430 J of energy.
The heat capacity here is 9GW. That is 9 gigajoules of energy per second, or 9 billion joules every second. Divide this by the number of joules to cook each hot dog gets us the number of hot dogs that could be cooked every second:
9,000,000,000/23,430=384,123 hot dogs/second
With this hot dogs per second figure, we can find how long this energy source would take to feed the entire US population a Costco hot dog.
342,000,000 people/384,123 hot dogs per sec=890 seconds
Converting this to minutes:
890/60=14.8 minutes
So, this source of energy could feed the entire population of the US a Costco hot dog in less than 15 minutes if properly harnessed.
Hey, I recognize that model of kindle! It's the same as mine, a 4th gen non-touch. Have you ever thought of jailbreaking it to use koreader? I jailbroke mine and koreader is much nicer than the stock interface. Here is a good tutorial for this particular model (in comments, by spartanheavy): https://www.reddit.com/r/kindle/comments/1ipko3u/got_myself_kindle_4th_gen/
Maybe, but it is pretty affordable (~$26 USD), the hardware and software is open source, and it is very portable due to the lack of a soldering station. It is also temp adjustable and has features like temp boost for heat sucking components like ground planes. For nerds, they have a risc-v devboard that you can use with the soldering iron's CPU. So, there are reasons it has a CPU, but some would probably still prefer a regular dumb soldering iron.
Another happy owner of a pinecil here. For me it gets plenty hot and works great. There isn't a battery though, you're meant to use it wired with either USB C PD 65 Watts or 12V standard size barrel plug at similar wattage. More info on the pinecil wiki: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil_Power_Supplies
Didn't even notice that bit lol. After reading lots of articles on the internet, one tends to skip all the BS in the intro. Can't disagree with that paragraph more.
I still think the rest of the guide is very good though, it walked me through tons of complicated config I could not have figured out on my own. Turns out you have to configure the VM to have special VirtIO hardware and install the drivers for that hardware within the Windows VM, among other various tweaks.
Also, this setup 100% should be people's last resort for running software on Linux. I would be using wine if I could, but the SolidWorks for Linux project has stalled in favor of the fusion360 for Linux project, so I had no choices other than installing Windows 11 on my old laptop or installing it in a VM.
I've gotten solidworks to work in a Windows 11 VM with decent performance. I use Virtual Machine Manager, which is a GUI that uses QEMU/KVM on the backend.
I used this guide for better performance, and it also resolved an issue where solidworks wouldn't install because it could tell it was in a VM.
The site Techpir8 linked is distrosea, which lets you test Linux distros in a browser window (the Linux distros run on distrosea's servers). No need for Ventoy.
Dual boot sucks because Windows likes to overwrite partitions critical to booting Linux without warning.
You could use Virtual Machine Manager (GUI frontend for QEMU/KVM, the most performant VM software on Linux). Here is a good guide on how to optimize the settings for a Windows 11 guest. I've used this guide to get SolidWorks, a CAD program, to work decent, so I assume other professional programs like Lightroom will run well too.
Idk. I've been using my ender 3 v1 without an ABL probe of any kind just fine. The main problems occur when the shitty stock buildplate (the super thin buildtak one held on with binder clips) warps under high heat and you have to contend with high spots. Getting a probe could have solved the problem, but I just swapped over to a magnetic spring steel PEI buildplate, and after a bit of live leveling, I've printed things using the full buildplate once or twice so far with proper adhesion throughout. The only thing that I needed to do to use that was to stick a magnetic sticker on the stock aluminum bed. If OP needs a link, this is the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Flexible-Heated-235x235mm-Ender/dp/B07XBM24HN
Would an ABL sensor be nice to have? Absolutely. But you can technically do without it if your buildplate isn't warped and you are very good at live leveling.
Oh, I also have the stiffer yellow springs installed, which helps the bed stay more level than the stock springs. That probably helps as well.
https://www.poptarts.com/en_US/products/all-flavors/pop-tarts-unfrosted-strawberry-product.html
Apparently, pop tarts without frosting are a thing... They are probably still really sugary even without the frosting.
This price drop must be part of the reason why my Dad bought one of these ad supported kindle 4's way back when. He used it for a little while before he finally got a smartphone through work I think. At some point he took that kindle to work and left it in a drawer for years.
About a year ago, I saw this video about kindle jailbreaking (the dammit jeff one if you are familiar) and decided I wanted to give it a shot since I love jailbreaking old game consoles. I asked him about it and he brought it home from work. I had to charge it up for a while to get it to turn on, but it seems like the original battery is still going strong after 15 years.
Once I got KOreader working on it, having a dedicated eink reader has had me reading more than I have since elementary school. Not having a keyboard (either physical or touchscreen) is a bit annoying, but I will probably use this kindle until nobody makes replacement batteries for it anymore... At that point I'll buy something more open source and not made by Amazon.
Good to know. When it comes to mice, I'm more of a pulsar xlite fan anyway.
I like my full size keychron keyboard with hot swap sockets personally (edit: mine is the keychron V6). Haven't tried many other "good" keyboards firsthand. They have all sorts of different sizes of keyboard available if you want something more compact. They sell their keyboards both as pre built and "barebones" (ie no keycaps or switches) with the idea that you can select the ideal switches for you and a set of keycaps that are the profile/aesthetic you are looking for.
Try to get one of their keyboards with QMK/VIA support. It's an open source keyboard firmware that you can compile and modify yourself. And since it's open source firmware, the likelihood that there is a keylogger or something snooping on what you're typing is incredibly slim ;)
Really? I thought magnets placed near hard drives would just magnitize the platters in such a way that the data would be destroyed. In that case it would still work if reformatted I think.
Not really. I only hate it personally because I find it inflexible, opinionated, and oversimplified compared to KDE Plasma.
If it works well for you, use gnome! Linux is all about choice after all.
Oh FreeCAD definitely works in strange ways, mainly in the UX department, where it still needs work (kinda like GIMP does). Building a model in a broad sense is similar to solidworks (sketches extruded to 3d, cutting off material from there, etc), but understanding which workbench does what and navigating things is kind of a pain, even now.
Then again, it was similarly frustrating when I had to use fusion 360 instead of solidworks for a project. CAD programs are generally complex pieces of software, so it isn't surprising that switching to one you aren't familiar with really slows you down.
Only way I've found to get solidworks to run on Linux is to run a windows 11 VM using virtual machine manager (VMM). Ideally with GPU passthrough, among other optimizations. Kind of runs like shit on my Thinkpad T580 though, which is to be expected for an 8th gen quad core i5 laptop from 2018...
I've tried FreeCAD recently, and it isn't that bad. The latest updates (v1.0 and beyond) have made it much better than it used to be. It helps to watch video guides, as the workflows are a little different. I found this one to be helpful: https://youtube.com/watch?v=9cqs3oTzpac
For what it's worth, lots of phones these days are pretty aggressive with automatic post processing of photos, so the photo could be real (ie not AI generated or edited intentionally with AI) assuming the phone has a lower quality camera sensor with bad detail.
Good to know you didn't experience any issues beyond send to kindle not working anymore. I was concerned because in the past, a different large company (Nintendo) sent out software updates trying to stifle 3DS homebrew years after they stopped pushing updates for the console.
To clarify my use case, I set up an ebook library with calibre on my PC, and I can sync the books in that library over my local WiFi network (aka my LAN) to a kindle that had the correct homebrew software installed. In my case, that is koreader. It makes it easier than using a USB cable to do the same syncing for two reasons: first, you don't need to plug in a cable. Second, with the way the homebrew software works, you can only transfer files via USB when you are using the kindle's native OS. This means I have to exit koreader and wait for it to reboot every time I want to sync with a cable. Using network sync avoids this issue.
The other thing I use WiFi for on my kindle is to access wikipedia. Some of the books I read are older, and sometimes I want to highlight a confusing word and search wikipedia without picking up my phone (this is a function of koreader).
I actually never used Amazon's send to kindle email service. My kindle used to be my Dad's, but I didn't start using it until recently. It's still registered with his account, but the send to kindle functionality hasn't been used on my kindle in years.
On the subject of sending Amazon books to kindle via USB, I don't think any Amazon books can be synced to either of our devices anymore, even with a cable. The main reason they discontinued support for these kindles in the first place is because they were incompatible with new ebook DRM schemes. The DRM compatible with these is trivial to crack. DRM free files not from Amazon should work however.
Perhaps I should ask these questions in the Kindle modding community on lemmy or on the mobileread forums. They might know more about this.
Others already addressed battery cost, so I will address charging time:
For modern EVs, charging time is basically a non-issue outside of longer road trips. Most EV owners utilize a slower (level 1 or level 2) charging station at home, which allows them to charge the car while they are at home/sleeping. EV owners can also use charging stations near/at their destination to charge while they are doing other things anyway. And assuming your daily commute isn't like 100 miles/160 km, you really don't need to stop at charging stations at all besides the one at home, which is cheaper. Obviously this does not apply if you rent a house or live in an apartment, etc.
Even road trips aren't so bad assuming the car has an 800 volt battery pack instead of a 400 volt (higher voltage at same current = more power to charge and faster charge time). It also helps a lot if you only charge to 80 percent instead of 100 because that last 20 percent almost doubles your charge time and is harder on the battery. A lot of new EV owners don't understand this and get frustrated when they are sitting there for 40 minutes getting almost no additional range compared to waiting for 20 minutes.
Let's assume Costco size hot dogs (1/4 lb, or 0.11 kg), with an internal temp increase from fridge temperatures (37 F, or 276 K) to 165 F (347 K). Let's also assume the heat capacity of the hot dog is about 3000 J/kg*K. To heat up a single hot dog takes this much energy:
q=mc*deltaT => q=(0.11 kg)*(3000 J/kg*K)*(347K-276K)=23,430 J of energy.
The heat capacity here is 9GW. That is 9 gigajoules of energy per second, or 9 billion joules every second. Divide this by the number of joules to cook each hot dog gets us the number of hot dogs that could be cooked every second:
9,000,000,000/23,430=384,123 hot dogs/second
With this hot dogs per second figure, we can find how long this energy source would take to feed the entire US population a Costco hot dog.
342,000,000 people/384,123 hot dogs per sec=890 seconds
Converting this to minutes:
890/60=14.8 minutes
So, this source of energy could feed the entire population of the US a Costco hot dog in less than 15 minutes if properly harnessed.
Hey, I recognize that model of kindle! It's the same as mine, a 4th gen non-touch. Have you ever thought of jailbreaking it to use koreader? I jailbroke mine and koreader is much nicer than the stock interface. Here is a good tutorial for this particular model (in comments, by spartanheavy): https://www.reddit.com/r/kindle/comments/1ipko3u/got_myself_kindle_4th_gen/
Maybe, but it is pretty affordable (~$26 USD), the hardware and software is open source, and it is very portable due to the lack of a soldering station. It is also temp adjustable and has features like temp boost for heat sucking components like ground planes. For nerds, they have a risc-v devboard that you can use with the soldering iron's CPU. So, there are reasons it has a CPU, but some would probably still prefer a regular dumb soldering iron.
Another happy owner of a pinecil here. For me it gets plenty hot and works great. There isn't a battery though, you're meant to use it wired with either USB C PD 65 Watts or 12V standard size barrel plug at similar wattage. More info on the pinecil wiki: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil_Power_Supplies
Also, here's some more general info about pinecil from their wiki: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil
Didn't even notice that bit lol. After reading lots of articles on the internet, one tends to skip all the BS in the intro. Can't disagree with that paragraph more.
I still think the rest of the guide is very good though, it walked me through tons of complicated config I could not have figured out on my own. Turns out you have to configure the VM to have special VirtIO hardware and install the drivers for that hardware within the Windows VM, among other various tweaks.
Also, this setup 100% should be people's last resort for running software on Linux. I would be using wine if I could, but the SolidWorks for Linux project has stalled in favor of the fusion360 for Linux project, so I had no choices other than installing Windows 11 on my old laptop or installing it in a VM.
I've gotten solidworks to work in a Windows 11 VM with decent performance. I use Virtual Machine Manager, which is a GUI that uses QEMU/KVM on the backend.
I used this guide for better performance, and it also resolved an issue where solidworks wouldn't install because it could tell it was in a VM.
The site Techpir8 linked is distrosea, which lets you test Linux distros in a browser window (the Linux distros run on distrosea's servers). No need for Ventoy.
Dual boot sucks because Windows likes to overwrite partitions critical to booting Linux without warning.
You could use Virtual Machine Manager (GUI frontend for QEMU/KVM, the most performant VM software on Linux). Here is a good guide on how to optimize the settings for a Windows 11 guest. I've used this guide to get SolidWorks, a CAD program, to work decent, so I assume other professional programs like Lightroom will run well too.